How RV Refrigerators Work

There are a lot of misconceptions about how RV refrigerators work.  For example, an RV fridge does not have a compressor or refrigerant like a household unit.  RV fridges have a coil system that boils ammonia and when it reaches the condenser, it cools.  There are three methods of boiling the ammonia: a 110 heating element, propane flame, and a 12 volt heating element. This type of refrigerator is referred to as a three way fridge.  Most units today are two way electric and propane.  Using a 12 volt heating element to cool a fridge is very difficult because the RV's house battery will discharge rapidly if you don't have another method of recharging it.  You can tell your RV fridge is working well if it cools right down in 2 or 3 hours.  Your fridge has a problem with the cooling unit if you get a strong smell of ammonia, the freezer is cooling but the fridge isn't, or if it becomes warm inside.  If you smell ammonia, the cooling unit needs to be changed as it is leaking.  If the fridge is warm inside or the freezer cold but not the fridge, your cooling unit probably has a blockage.  In most cases you would change the cooling unit.  About 10% of the time you can temporarily unblock a cooling unit by turning the fridge upside down.  Some people have tried driving over rough roads with their fridge in the back of their pick-up truck to loosen the blockage.  Changing a cooling unit is an expensive operation, even a rebuilt unit can range in cost from $600 to $900.  It takes approximately 2-3 hours to remove and replace the fridge and the cooling unit.  When a cooling unit needs to be changed, we will always recommend a complete fridge.  For a few hundred dollars extra, you will get not only an updated model, you will get new electronic modules as well.  Nothing is worse than installing a new cooling unit and having the ignition module or power supply fail, costing an additional $250.  Replacement refrigerators are available for most existing Dometic and Norcold models.  The cost to replace your fridge starts at about $900 for a small camper fridge to $2000 for the deluxe larger models.  Some of the four door models with ice makers reach $5000 and more.  The only way to extend the life of your fridge is to ensure that you keep the fridge level when in operation.

How Truck Campers are Built

Truck Campers are popular for allot of reasons. You can utilize your existing pick up truck and this will save additional insurance and maintenance costs. People who like to camp in the back country like having four wheel drive, more ground clearance and a unit that is shorter in length. Towing a boat, race car, horse trailer or utility trailer is an option with a truck and camper.Campers today have all the conveniences of a motor home or trailer like hot water, shower, toilet and some even have a slide out. There are three main construction techniques utilized by camper manufacturers. The stick and tin method has been around since RV's started to be manufactured. These campers are built with a wood frame, are insulated with fiberglass and have profiled aluminum siding. The second type of construction is referred to as bonded wall or laminated. This method utilizes foam insulation and Filon fiberglass siding. The sidewalls are built in one piece by bonding foam between the interior and exterior panels. The third is the moulded fiberglass shell. The manufacturer moulds the top and bottom of the unit and seams it in the middle. All types of construction have advantages and drawbacks.
Here is a couple links to more Truck Camper information:

What is the deal with truck camper weights?

Truck Camper tie downs

Check out our in stock Campers

Stick and Tin

Bonded Wall

Moulded

Truck Camper Tie downs

Camper tie downs have come a long way since the Belly Bar. Belly Bars are still available but the vehicle specific side mount tie downs are stronger and provide more ground clearance. Side mount or split mount tie downs are mounted to the side of the pick up's frame and usually requires no drilling. There are two manufacturers making side mount tie downs, Billis and Torque Lift. Billis tie downs are less expensive than Torque Lift but will not always work with trucks with running boards or side steps. We have found the Torque Lift tie down will work in just about any situation. Both of these companies can provide rear tie downs that mount to O.E.M. truck receivers.The only other type of tie down available is called a stake pocket tie down. They mount in the stake pocket on the top of the truck box. They are typically used for lighter duty applications. Check out Billis' fit list and Torque Lift.

Belly Bar

Side Mount / Split Mount / Frame Mount

Post Pocket Tie down

Class C Motorhomes

Class C Motorhomes are easily identified by their cab over bunk. These Motorhomes are built on a cab and chassis supplied by Ford, Chevrolet or Dodge. These chassis are commonly known as cut-aways. Some of the newer models have other makes of chassis like Volkswagen or the Freight liner Sprinter. To be considered a Class C there is always a bunk over the driver's seating area or in some cases this space has a T.V. and stereo and is known as a front entertainment area. They range in size from 20 to 40 feet for the most part although there are a few exceptions depending on age and manufacturer. Class C's are similar to a moving vans, but most of them are a large box attached to a van chassis and many don't have the cab over portion. Most C type Motorhomes have dual rear wheels similar to a dually pickup trucks. Class C's are available with single or multiple slide outs and many of the smaller ones have none. There are several manufacturer's building these units and many floor plans are available. Most R.V. rental companies use C type units because they are considered easy to drive, have passenger seating for six and are less expensive than Class A Motorhomes. Check out Hub City RV's selection of Class C Motorhomes by clicking here

Trailer and Fifth Wheel Hitches

There are two basic RV hitches: travel trailer and fifth wheel hitches (see diagram). Hitches for travel trailers are called receivers and there are four different weight classes depending upon the size of the trailer. Fifth-wheel hitches are all similar. The basic difference between them is the removal. The new style hitch brackets on the pick-up's bed are directly over the frame, while the older style brackets are over the truck fender wells. The new hitch's advantage is the entire hitch is removable while only the bench can be pulled on the old style. Receivers are generally mated to trailers with an equalizing hitch head to distribute the weight and help eliminate sway.

Online RV Parts open 24 hours a day.

It's been a long time coming but you can now purchase you RV parts and accessories online. Search by category or browse through photographs. You have access to all the top brand names like Carefree, Atwood, Suburban, Magic Chef, Tetford, Shurflow, Hijacker and Sealand. You can order your parts and accessories today and have them shipped to your address tomorrow. You can order with confidence knowing Coast Distribution is North America's largest RV parts and accessory supplier. Online RV Parts Catalogue

7-Way Trailer Connection

To tow a travel trailer or fifth wheel with trailer brakes you require a 7-way trailer connection on your tow vehicle. This plug will have: charge line/black wire, ground/white wire, taillights/brown wire, left turn/red wire, brake line/blue wire, right turn/green and the center pin is usually reverse lights/yellow wire. Many of today's tow vehicles are equipped with this plug installed but lack the electric brake control and fuse for charge line. If you plan to tow a trailer or fifth wheel, we recommend that you have a working 7-way plug on your tow vehicle.

Introducing the Canyon Cat by Palomino

For a long time now, we have been asking the people from Palomino for a light weight travel trailer suitable for sport utilities, sedans, and light weight pick ups.  They finally delivered the Canyon Cat.  Palomino's Canyon Cat comes in three different models: the 12-RB, 15-UD, and the 17-FQ.  Dry weight is not going to be a problem with the 12-RB at 2360lbs, 15-UD at 2938lbs, and the 17-FQ at 3847lbs.  One look at this new line of trailers, and you'll know that the quality and feeling of a Palomino has not been compromised- these trailers have it all.  Many brand names are entering this market, but none have the style and comfort of the Canyon Cat. Some of the standard features include a 45 GAL fresh water tank, 30 GAL grey water tank, 30 GAL black water tank, flush toilet, 20,000 BTU furnace, DSI water heater, rubber roof, tinted safety glass, and 3 CU FT refrigerator.  Compare these to the competition, and you'll be blown away.  The 12-RB is a classic floorplan that has been made since the 60's.  The 15-UD has the family in mind with bunk beds in the back, and a queen sized bed up front for mom and dad.  The 17-FQ is for the more seasoned RV'er, who want the versatility of a light duty tow vehicle, without sacrificing the comfort of an rv.  Really the Canyon Cat can allow most campers to say "No" to tents and tent trailers. Click on the model to see photo's and pricing: 2012 Canyon Cat 12RB, 2012 Canyon Cat 15UD and 2012 Canyon Cat  17FQ.

 

Don't Forget to Winterize Your RV

Every spring at the dealership we get a lot of people looking for faucets, toilet valves, fittings and water heaters. This is due to improperly or not winterizing their motor homes, trailers or campers. Replacing a water heater can be quite expensive. We hear all the time "I drained out all the water" and still they face freeze up damage. Their are basically two methods of RV winterizing: blow out the lines with compressed air or run RV Antifreeze through the lines. The first step is to ensure the black, grey and fresh water tanks are drained. Then you will need to by-pass the water heater and drain the tank. A water heater by-pass kit is a standard feature on most RV's these days, but a male/male 1/2" connector works as well. With the blow out method you would now connect compressed air to the city water inlet with a compressed air adapter. Next you would turn on each faucet one at a time to allow the air to force the water out of the lines. Don't forget the outside shower. The toilet should have the water forced out as well. Now you should pour a couple of ounces of RV Antifreeze down each drain to prevent the traps from freezing. To Winterize with RV Antifreeze you would still drain tanks, by-pass water heater and drain it. You would then look for the water pump, identify the inlet side, disconnect and attach a length of line that can reach a gallon of RV Antifreeze. Next you would turn on the water pump and pump the pink liquid through each faucet, the toilet and showers. To prevent freezing of the check valve, it is wise to depress it with a pencil at the city water outlet. It is very inexpensive to have you unit professionally winterized, we charge $29.95 for units that take 1 gallon of anti-freeze and have a water heater by-pass. To contact Hub City RV to book your appointment click here http://www.hubcityrv.ca/contact_us.asp

Steam Trains and Saw Mills

We've had so many amazing adventures in the almost 20 years we've lived on Vancouver Island, one would think there's nothing more to see.  We were pleasantly surprised recently, when we decided to check out the Port Alberni Steam Train.  We had heard about the Beaufort Gang Train Robbery and thought it sounded like fun.  We boarded the train at the Port Alberni Quay, and were soon joined by some interesting characters in period costume.  The volunteer actors did such a great job of involving and entertaining the passengers along the route. Suddenly, the train stopped and we were surrounded by bandits on horseback!  They boarded the train and proceeded to rob our costumed friends, as well as making off with the contents of the safe, and the payroll!  After some hilarious antics, the bandits exited the train, and took their bows.  We then proceeded to the McLean Mill.  Thinking that was the end of our entertainment, we were further surprised to find an enthusiastic group of actors from the Tin Pants Theatre awaiting our arrival at the mill.  We were then treated to demonstrations of the steam donkey, sawmill and live theatre, in a historic setting.  This was one of the best adventures we've had on Vancouver Island and we would recommend it to anyone.  The Alberni Pacific Railway, along with the Alberni Valley Heritage Network, has done an amazing job of capturing people's interest in the history of Port Alberni and the McLean Mill.  They also offer other adventures, including a wine tour train trip to the Chase and Warren Estate Winery, and a Santa Train.  We'll definitely be back!

http://www.alberniheritage.com/

Hub City RV's RV Maintenance Schedule

ROOF


Clean and Condition Rubber (Every Year) Use a Rubber Roof Cleaner and Conditioner

Inspect Vents, Stacks and AC (Every Year) For Cracks and Missing Pieces

Inspect Roof Sealants (Every 6 Months) For Cracks, Lifting or Peeling

ELECTRICAL

Check Battery Fluid Level (Every 6 Months) Refill as Necessary

Check Signal, Brake and Clearance Lights (Each Trip) Repair as Necessary

Check Interior Lights, Switches and Electrical Accessories (Each Trip) Repair as Necessary

Check Battery Terminals (Every 6 Months) Use Sandpaper to clean

WATER SYSTEM

Flush Fresh Water System (Every Year) Use Tank Cleaning Product

Flush Holding Tanks (Every Year) Use Tank Cleaning Product for Sensors

Use Waste Digester Black Tank (Each Trip) To Avoid Solids Building Up

Winterize (Every Year) To Avoid a Costly Freeze Up Water System

APPLIANCES

Water Heater (Each Year) Flush To Expel Mineral Deposits

Refrigerator Burner (Every 6 Months) Clean Rust and Debris from Burner

Furnace Exhaust (Each Year) Look for Bee Hives and Spider Webs

Have Propane Inspection (Each Year) To Check for Operation and Leaks

EXTERIOR

Inspect Window Sealant (Every 6 Months) Look for Lifting, Cracking or Peeling

Inspect Exterior Doors Sealant (Every 6 Months) Look for Lifting, Cracking or Peeling

Inspect Edge Mouldings (Every 6 Months) Look for Lifting, Cracking or Peeling

Inspect Exterior Lights (Every 6 Months) Look for Lifting, Cracking or Peeling

Chassis

Repack Wheel Bearings (Every Year) Or as Necessary

Adjust Brakes (Every Year) To Ensure Proper Operation

Check Tire Pressure (Each Trip) To Ensure Long Life

Torque Wheel Nuts (Each Trip) So Your Wheels Stay On

Lubricate Stabilizer Jacks (Every 6 Months) To Ensure they do not Seize

SAFETY

Check Smoke Detector Battery (Each Trip)  Change as Necessary

Check CO2 Detector Battery (Each Trip) Change as Necessary

Check Fire Extinguisher (Each Trip) Change as Necessary

SLIDES OUTS

Check Operation (Each Trip) For Binding

Check Seals (Every 6 Months) Check for Loose or Gaping Seals

Lubricate Rollers and Glides (Every 6 Months) To Ensure Operation

Pachena Bay Campground on Vancouver Island British Columbia

The best thing about Pachena Bay Campground is certainly not the drive in. From Port Alberni B.C. it is about a 80 kilometer drive down an active logging road that takes 2 hours. Can you say washboard ! Parts of this road you need to slow down to 10km/h to not destroy your rig. I think a lot of units start to leak from twisting and flexing too fast down roads like this. Important Note: To units with poor tires or wheel bearings that have not been re-packed, this will be the ultimate test of your luck. Now really if you drive slowly and sensibly this road is totally do-able, but make sure your rig is up to snuff. I think what makes Pachena Bay Campground popular is it's location, right at the head of the Westcoast Trail. There is a constant flow of people starting and finishing the famous 7 day trek. Today is Canada Day 2011 so my youngest and I thought we would do a day hike of the trail. She was quite impressed with the bridges and 4 and 6 story ladder systems. This trail is quite challenging in it's entirety and a day hike will give you an idea of what a 7 day trek would be like. Last year some friends and I did the trail, but that's another story. After dinner we went out for a tear on our mountain bikes. We ran into what we think is the most scenic campsite, R1 has an ocean view and is right on the beach. The next morning we spent the day exploring the expansive sandy beach. You can see eagles in their nests and the tidal pools are full of nature. No trip to Pachena Bay would be complete without visiting Bamfield. Bamfield is a destination for ocean kayaking, sport fishing, the Westcoast Trail and is home to the Bamfield Marine Sciences Centre.

RV Electrical Systems

Recreational vehicles operate primarily on 12 volt (battery) power. This battery can be charged by the power converter or the tow vehicles alternator. When the RV is plugged into AC power, the power converter converts it to DC power. The tow vehicle charges the battery through a charge line off the starting battery. The charge line must have an isolator to prevent drawing the starting battery. The fridge, air conditioner and 110 power outlets have direct AC power when the RV is plugged in. Most of the newer units have gas and electric hot water tanks and microwave ovens which get direct power as well. All appliance ignitors, pumps, stereos, fans, interior and exterior lights run on 12 volt power. Trailers that have 12 volt electric brakes, are equipped with a break-away switch that is connected to the tow vehicle. If this switch is pulled, it will lock up the trailer brakes to stop the trailer in the event of a break-away. The brakes are activated by an electronic brake control, located in the tow vehicle. Lastly, the 12 volt system has a fuse box (similar to automobiles) and the 110 system has breakers.

RV Water Systems

RV Water Systems



Recreational Vehicles have two connected water systems.  The fresh water tank supplies a 12 volt demand water pump, which pumps water through lines when the taps are open.  The city water connection supplies the water lines with pressurized tap water.  When in fully serviced campgrounds, you would use city water and only use your fresh water tank when water service was not available.  Be sure to always use a non-toxic water hose for drinking water.  You should carry a water pressure regulator to prevent over-pressurizing the water lines which causes leaks.

The water system also includes two separate waste tanks.  These tanks are known as the grey and black water tanks.  Grey water is a combination of sink and shower water.  Never store valuables in the bathtub, as this is where the grey water will back up when the tank is full.  Black water contains only toilet waste.  Chemicals are available to break down solids and control odour in the black water tank.  Both have gate valves which can be pulled to drain the tanks.  Be sure to connect a sewer hose to the outlet and into the dumping station drain before pulling the valves.

Winterizing the water system is fairly simple.  First, get a gallon of non-toxic RV antifreeze, and then by-pass the hot water tank (some units have a by-pass kit).  With a by-pass kit, simply turn the taps to by-pass the tank.  Without a by-pass kit, disconnect both water lines at the back of the hot water tank and join them together.  Once the tank is by-passed, unscrew the tank's drain and pull the pressure relief valve to drain the tank.  Make sure fresh water and waste tanks are now completely empty.  Next, disconnect the main water line at the fresh water tank (this is the line that feeds the water pump).  If this is inconvenient, pull off water line at inlet side of water pump, then fasten a length of hose to it.  Now place the hose in RV antifreeze, turn on water pump and beginning with the closest taps to pump, turn on taps one at a time.  Let the taps run until the colour of antifreeze is visible.  Run every tap in the unit, hot and cold separately.  Don't forget to flush the toilet until the colour appears as well.  Once this is done, all the water in the system has been forced out, leaving none left to freeze. 

We are not responsible for any damage that may occur by following these guidelines.

RV How To Guide: Chapter 1- Propane Systems

Propane systems are the most dangerous part of RVing.  It is very important to ensure your system is fully functional and passes all safety regulations.  In order to do this, we highly recommend you have your unit tested by a certified RV Technician, and gas certified.  This blog is for your information only.  We do not recommend trying to test your own propane system, and are not responsible for any outcomes.

The propane appliance system in a Recreational Vehicle has many elements. It is common to find a propane fridge, stove, furnace and hot water tank in most RV's. Each appliance will have a propane connection and some method of lighting each burner. For example, older RV's have propane furnaces that require you to manually light pilots to fire burners, while most newer furnaces have automatic ignitors triggered by a switch. As well, most newer fridges and hot water tanks have automatic ignitors. These appliances are relatively easy to fire. Most have a valve to turn, or a button or knob to push, and you either light with a match or activate ignitor. The stovetop is the easiest part; most work just like a gas barbecue and all ovens have a pilot light. Appliances have printed instructions of the operations step by step, located by the controls. The RV's propane system has propane bottles and a propane regulator to supply each appliance. Motor homes and van conversions have frame mounted propane tanks. The propane system is plumbed with copper tubing from each appliance to a steel main located underneath the RV's floor (see diagram). The main line is connected to the regulator and the regulator to the propane bottles. These are the basic elements of an RV's propane system.

Propane is directed to appliances from propane bottles. It first passes through hoses to a propane regulator. This regulates pressure to the propane lines. From there the propane is directed to a steel line usually found under the RV's frame. This enables all propane connections to be made outside the RV's body. In newer RV's there are no connections or tees inside the RV's body. All connections are potential leaks. Copper tubing is used from the main line to each appliance. Each end of the tubing is flared and connected with brass nuts. Finally the copper tubing connects to each individual appliance's gas control valve.

Many problems can arise with an RV's propane system, the most dangerous of all being propane leaks. These can be detected in two basic ways. Because most leaks occur at connections, you can check for leaks soaping each connection with a mixture of half dish soap and half water. Soap should be heavily applied with a paint brush and the propane supply must be on. If bubbling appears, this indicates a leak. Look carefully for continuous bubbling and make sure appliances are off. 

The second method requires a manometer. The manometer measures the pressure inside the propane lines. It will also tell if the pressure leaks off. Simply remove stove top cover and one of the burners- this will leave the gas supply tube gase. The manometers nipple then hooks onto burner tube, with the propane turned on at this time. The manometer will now read gas line pressure. This should be between 11 and 13 pounds per square inch. Now turn the burner off and ensure all appliances are off.  With another stove top burner turned on, bleed gas pressure to 5lbs per square inch. When 20 minutes elapse, look at manometer. It will read either higher than 5lbs or lower. If higher, the system does not leak and reads higher due to gas expansion within lines. If lower, the system probably leaks. Propane gas tests can be dangerous and should be done in a well ventilated area and away from spark or flame. In order to certify a propane system, you must be a licensed pipe fitter with recreational vehicle certification. Propane connection leaks can usually be fixed by tightening connections and testing with soap method. If all connections in a system have been soap tested and manometer leaks persist, there is probably a faulty gas valve at one of the appliances. A gas valve leak can be determined by capping off each appliance one at a time with a proper propane line cap. These are the most common methods of diagnosing and repairing propane leaks.

There are many reasons why a propane system cannot be certified.  Propane bottles must be re-valved every ten years.  Each bottle is clearly marked with a month and year (ie. 6-94).  Ten years from the date shown the bottles are out of date.  Mantle style gas lamps are now illegal in RV's, as are catalytic style heaters.  When gas valves leak through the pilot tube in the off position, they must be changed.  Leaking or broken regulators must be changed.  The hoses from bottles to regulator cannot be cracked.  There can be no tees or connections inside the RV's body, just direct connections to appliance gas valves.  Most importantly, the propane system must not have any propane leaks.

Recreational vehicle fridges are fairly complex.  Most work with propane or electricity and some have 12 volt battery power as well.  It is very important to completely level your RV before operating it's fridge.  These fridges have a cooling unit in the back filled with ammonia which, when heated, causes a cooling reaction.  Most fridges fail because of blockages in the cooling unit and if a strong ammonia smell is present inside the fridge, the cooling unit leaks and is probably beyond repair.  These cooling units can be rebuilt, but this is very expensive.  Inadequate heat at the cooling units base will cause poor fridge performance.  A burned out electric element or clogged up propane burner are common problems.  The RV fridge is definitely the most expensive RV appliance.

The RV hot water tank is fairly simple and straight forward.  Some newer models have automatic ignition but most have to be lit outside the unit.  It consists of a tank, either 6 or 10 gallon, a gas valve, a pressure relief valve, drain valve and a gas fired burner.  Some of the late model RV's have electric elements to heat water when the unit is plugged in.  The most common problems are: the pilot light won't stay lit, the pressure relief valve leaks or the pilot light won't shut off.  If the pilot won't stay lit, usually the thermocouple is faulty and installation of a universal thermocouple is inexpensive and easy.  Be sure to get the big end of the thermocouple right into the pilot flame.  The pressure relief valve has a rubber seal.  If it is leaking, sometimes tapping the release lever will reseat the seal.  If this doesn't work, the whole valve can be wound out with a pipe wrench and replaced.  Finally, if the gas valve has been turned to the off position and the pilot does not shut off, the gas valve leaks and must be replaced.

There are two basic kinds of RV furnace.  One is called a gravity furnace, basically because it is not fan driven and the heat dumps out.  The other is called a forced air furnace.  It has a fan to direct the heat.  All are thermostatically controlled.  Again, most of the newer models feature automatic ignition.  The models that have to be lit manually have the same problems as the hot water tank.  Another common problem that occurs after lighting the pilot, is that it blows out after the fan is engaged.  This is usually a faulty thermocouple or the pilot flame is not hitting the thermocouple properly.  The thermostat will engage the furnace fan.  A faulty thermostat can be checked by joining the two wires at the thermostat.  If the furnace fires, the thermostat is faulty.

The Power of Peace of Mind by Harvey Cohen

There are few things that provide “peace of mind” more than knowing unexpected financial hardship can be avoided. This is exactly the sort of comfort one may enjoy if they invest in a longterm vehicle breakdown protection plan. Better known as ‘extended warranties’ these programs provide a level of protection designed to reduce if not eliminate the need to pay for unwanted yet unavoidable breakdowns. It’s true stories have been written questioning their worth. It’s also true some believe that one can take their chances as to whether or not they would even use such a plan. The truth is these programs have never been better. The level of coverage provided is second-tonone affording the RVer to travel worry-free throughout North America. No longer will one have to be at the mercy of an unknown entity promising to repair their homeaway-from-home, for once armed with such a plan, the RVer can rest assured an expert will be
available by phone to prevent unwarranted and overly expensive repairs.
The whole reason for taking to the road in an RV is to enjoy oneself. Other than finding the ideal location with a pristine lake surrounded by utter quiet, what better way can one achieve peace and tranquility than knowing that should your RV suffer a mechanical shutdown, the major cost of repairing it will be looked after? Regardless of the model one purchases, anything can suffer a mechanical failure, true? Should this occur someone will have to pay to fix it. These programs are designed to take the worry out of doing just that. Furthermore they are not just a piece of paper covered with a lot of promises; rather they are actual insurance policies underwritten by a very reputable and experienced company… Industrial Alliance Pacific General. What does this mean to you? Some consumers (rightfully) fear the legitimacy of the so-called warranties. They have been known to wonder if these companies are real… will they be there to pay claims if and when they occur. Some wonder if they will actually cover things that really do break. Rest assured that a company such as Industrial Alliance Pacific General would never put their name on something they had no faith in. They too are at risk for it would be they who would have to pay the claims if something went wrong. Their name on each certificate assures the public that as long as the claim is legitimate, the money will be there to pay for the repairs… allowing the
RVer to do what s/he intended to do... and that’s have a good time.
Extended Mechanical Breakdown Protection. Is it worth it? You bet… because there’s nothing like laying back, staring at the stars and having nothing to worry about.

Harvey Cohen is an internationally renowned business consultant. He is featured on the hit TV show Style by Jury (as the Business Coach) and is proudly affiliated with the SAL GROUP and I A Pacific General Insurance Company.


© 2011 Harvey Cohen. All rights reserved. Unauthorized use of this material is not permitted without authorization from the author.

British Columbia RV Drivers License Requirements

As a general rule your standard class 5 Drivers License will allow you to tow travel trailers, fifth wheels and drive motor homes. This is very odd really as many people have never towed any type of trailer let alone a large Recreational Vehicle. There are two exceptions to this rule. If the trailer or fifth wheel you are planning to tow weighs more than 4600kg you are required to get a House Trailer endorsement through ICBC. If you already have a class 1, 2 or 3 Drivers License, a House Trailer Endorsement is not required. We will have House Trailer Endorsement instructional video available shortly to help you pass this test. To take this test you will need to contact your local Driver’s Licensing Office. The other exception to the rule is Class A Motor Homes with air brakes. For these units you will require an Air Brake Endorsement. This is usually a weekend course taught by a Heavy Truck Driving School. We now have in stock the Drive Safe RV video for you House Trailer Endorsement click here to contact us or call 250-468-7000.

How to identify Dry Rot in RV units.

The biggest concern when buying a used Recreational Vehicle should be condition with regards to leak damage, more commonly known as Dry Rot. Dry Rot is often overlooked by buyers due to inexperience with RV units. More attention seems to be paid to things like floor plan, options or price. The single largest expense that can be incurred on a RV unit is rebuild work from water damage. Checking a unit for water damage is not as easy as you might think. Here are some pointers, but nothing can replace years of experience. People usually have a brief look at the ceiling, but you need to get your hands inside the cupboards to try to feel for soft spots in the walls and ceiling. You should step on every spot possible on the floor looking for soft areas. We are always wary of units with new flooring as it’s usually installed to cover up problems with the original floor. A common spot for leaks in Class C Motor homes and Truck Campers is the front corners and under the bunk mattress. Many cases of water damage are not visible from inside the unit. A careful inspection outside the unit is necessary. Check the roof for cracked or loose sealant, cuts in the membrane and missing vent stacks. Inspect all the moldings to ensure they are not loose and are sealed. Check the seals on the windows and accessory doors. Even with a very careful inspection, many things could be missed. As always we highly recommend a complete inspection from a reputable dealer. The cost of one or two hour’s labour for inspection could save thousands in repair work. The example photos are from a 2002 one owner travel trailer, that would be considered good quality.

You and Me and the HST in BC

The British Columbia HST Tax has been out for quite some time now, and not much has changed with regard to Recreational Vehicle Sales. Before we had the Harmonized Sales Tax we had a 7% Provincial Tax and a 5% Federal Tax, 12% same today. Pre-HST when you traded a vehicle in on your purchase you paid both taxes on the difference, same deal now. I don’t think people pay enough attention to trade in tax savings. If you purchase a $50,000.00 unit and you get $35,000.00 for your trade, you will only have to pay tax on the $15,000.00 difference. That means a tax savings of $4,200.00 on the trade value, unless you pay cash and sell your trade separately. The only real change with regard to tax collection on vehicle sales in British Columbia is Private Sales. Before the HST Private Sales only had to pay the 7% Provincial Sales Tax. This Tax has now been raised to 12% and as always is collected by ICBC.

Selling Your RV ?

People sell their units for a lot of reasons. Sometimes it lack of use, need money, divorce, relocation, the list is endless. Regardless of your reason to sell you may consider having a Dealership help you sell your unit. The biggest consideration is exposure, this is especially relevant today with most print advertising classified sections fading away and the Internet taking the more prominent role. Selling your RV is a difficult task. You should ensure that all needed repairs are performed, have the Propane System Certified, insure unit for demonstration purposes and expertly detail. Now the hard part to establish the market value, this is difficult to do when you are financially and emotionally entangled. Most buyers are trying to buy below market value and most sellers are tyring to get above, how is that going to work? Another consideration would be your time to answer calls and meet potential buyers.You should consider your security, as you will share alot of personal information. We can offer potential buyers financing, selection, demonstration, repairs and service. But above all that our ability and desire to accept trade in's doubles our chance of making the sale. We have a fully interactive website that gets nearly 1000 visitors per day. We have strategically placed print ads in popular publications and 40,000 vehicles drive by our location per day. In fact we have more trouble finding units to sell than selling them. Finally we are here everyday to answer the phone, show and demonstrate units.

I Love my Wildcat Fifth Wheel

It's no secret why Wildcat continues to be one of the Nations Top Selling Fifth Wheels. The side walls are constructed of welded tubular aluminium studs, then
insulated with foam and Vacuum-Bonded. The floor is made of 2" X 3"'s on 12" centers and has a R-14 insulation factor. The chassis is a 10" steel I-Beam that provides greater strength and rigitity than tubular frames. Have you ever seen the one touch electric awning with no levers or knobs? It's sure to save a few marriages. Inside the coach you can enjoy floor track lighting which gives indirect lighting to help you see at night. The drawers are constructed from real plywood and have ball bearing glides to give you years of trouble free operation. Can you believe a CD/DVD Surround Sound System that runs on 12 Volts? How about Corian solid surface countertops, residential style metal kitchen faucet and nickle finish door handles and hinges? Now I could go on and on but the fact remains if you're in the market for a fifth wheel you should have a look at a Wildcat. To view our in stock Wildcats click here.

Who Needs RV Service

Proper servicing of a Recreational Vehicle should be the most important part of an RV purchase. We see people in our Service Department all the time who just bought a unit privately and say "He seemed like an honest fellow". Now don't get me wrong, we should be able to put our kids through college with all the service work that's available. I don't think people realize what a reputable Dealer offers in terms of Service. A used RV is kind of like buying a used car and an old house, with an elaborate 12 volt system and Propane appliances. Used car buyers almost always get the vehicle inspected, but with RV's a pre-inspection is less likely. I'll give you a rundown on what we do to each RV we sell. First we inspect the charging system and batteries. We then move to the Propane system where we not only check for leaks but for appliance operation and ensure its up to current codes. If the Propane System is up to code and operational we apply a BC Propane Gas Inspection Decal, which is mandatory in British Columbia. Next we inspect the roof seams, vents, windows and doors for problems with the sealants. Inside the unit we will check the operation of all lights, switches, breakers and fuses. Now we add water and check pump operation and for leaks in the fixtures, tanks and water heater. If that's not enough, we check to make sure all cabinet catches and drawer guides are functional. Finished? Not yet- we still have to check the wheel bearings, brake operation, tires and exterior lights lights to ensure safety. All of this is performed for a towable unit, what about Motor homes? With Motor homes you can add automotive safety inspection, automotive repairs and servicing. We find our average cost to service towable units to be $1000 to $1500 and $2000 to $3000 for motorized units, if we don't find an appliance issue or leaks/dry rot. Once we have performed all the repairs and testing its now time for the most important part, the instructional demonstration. So many issues can be solved if the customer knows the proper method of operating their unit. To sum it up you should ensure your Dealer is prepared to perform all these tasks on your purchase. If you do buy privately, I highly recommend a RV Dealer inspection and Propane Re-certification.

Why we sell Puma Towables

2011 Puma by Palomino

People often ask us why we sell Puma by Palomino owned by Forest River Inc. Aside from their stunning good looks, stylish decor options and pricing these Travel Trailers and Fifth Wheels are really well built. For example all exterior corners, all cabinet backing points and where furniture screws to the walls are not just one but two 2 X 2's giving you extra strength where its needed. The floor joists are 2 X 2 and spaced on 12'' centers. The sidewalls are 2 X 2 with 16'' centers, can you believe some manufacturers still use 1 X 2's? In order to walk on the roof we have a 4 1/2'' crowned truss roof system with 3/8'' roof decking. In order to build a top quality coach you need to start with a good foundation our rugged, powder coated steel I-beam frame is second to none. Top that off with 5/8 one piece floor decking glued and screwed with a 25 year warranty. These are only a hand full of the features that Puma trailers and fifth wheels have to offer. We encourage you to view the 2011 lineup and to see why point to point you can't beat the Puma towable. To view our in stock Puma's click here.

Trailer Tow Ratings

Choosing the right tow vehicle is very important if considering a travel trailer or fifth wheel. My Dad always said "Don't put the horse before the cart". Meaning don't limit your RV purchase based on the truck you just bought. We often see people purchase too light duty a truck to pull the unit they like. To avoid this we recommend choosing your RV first then matching up the proper tow vehicle. There are a variety of terms you should know like GCWR, GVWR, GAWR. Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) The total allowable weight of the tow vehicle, the trailer, the cargo in each, fluids and occupants. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) The total allowable weight for the vehicle, including occupants, fluids, options, hitch hardware, cargo and trailer-hitch weight. Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) The total allowable weight on an individual axle. This includes the weight of the tires, wheels, brakes and the axle itself. The maximum tow ratings for individual tow vehicles can be hard to determine. The easiest method and the one we use is Trailer Life Magazines Tow Rating Guide. Look up your vehicles tow rating by going to their main page at www.trailerlife.com and finding their Towing Guide.

Cross Border RV Shopping

Now here's a hot issue with customers and dealers alike. There is a common misconception that RV units cost less in the United States. The fact is the invoice cost of each unit is the same North America wide. We regularly scan the Internet to find these so called Wholesale RV Outlets, each time we find we can easily match and usually beat their pricing on like models. In British Columbia we are not allowed to advertise stripped down units cheap unless we have that unit in stock. Fact is very few people want the stripped down unit. So with the Internet you have a global marketplace, but you are subject to many different trade practise laws.There are many other drawbacks to Canadians purchasing in the United States. You have broker fees and duty associated with vehicle import. Lengthy vehicle importation paperwork required by Transport Canada. There are the costs of upgrading to Canadian Standards which are different from U.S. standards.Don't forget travel costs, insurance and dollar exchange. And if you get through all that most Dealers are not contractually obligated to perform warranty repairs on units. In fact there is a sizable cost difference in labour between what the manufacturer will pay and what the actual charge will be. Most Dealers absorb this cost for customers that made their purchase from them. The bottom line is a customer should sit down with their Dealer, provide all competitive information and give them a shot at the deal.

Canadian RV Joke

A light coloured hair Canadian girl walks into a coffee shop. Not an ordinary coffee shop a Canadian one, the one that offers a cup that you can unfold the rim and maybe win a prize. After receiving her coffee the girl starts jumping and shouting, I won a motorhome... I won a motorhome. The manager of the shop approaches the girl to verify her win and the exited girl hands over the cup. The manager looks at her and says "Win a Bagel" not "Winnebago".

Fiberglass VS Aluminum Siding

Today most RV Manufacturers are building Coaches with fiberglass or "Filon" siding. Is it really better? The smooth clean lines are attractive, it resists minor impacts and is easier to clean. The windows and doors may seal better to the smooth surface and if you contact a tree branch at the local campsite you may well get away with no damage. Cleaning an RV is always a chore and black streaks may be easier to remove from the flat surface. Now the drawbacks, filon built coaches have a large potential for leaking at the corner mouldings. Edge mouldings that get removed typically reveal large gaps that can let water inside walls if the seal fails. One method of avoiding this is to take note of top line units, most have a moulded one piece nose cap that covers the problem area. Another issue with fiberglass sided units is delamination; this happens when the siding and core of wall expand at different rates causing the siding to come loose from the wall. Any type of collision or delamination damage is very difficult to repair. In most cases a body shop needs to fill seams and blend color to get any kind of match. Now lets take a look at aluminum siding. First we think that aluminum's ability to breath through tongue and groove is a good idea. In many cases the siding is able to be wrapped around edges before mouldings are installed providing a backup to the silicone seal. When repairs are needed the aluminum siding is much easier to deal with, although color matches to older units are always a problem so avoiding the paint shop may not happen. As far a costs involved in repairing the fiberglass coaches would be much higher. Is fiberglass siding the way to go? We rarely see 20 year old fiberglass coaches in good condition.

Leak Problem

Happy New Year!!! Our resolution at Hub City RV is to pay more attention to our blog. I thought by posting some of the questions we get with our answers it would be quite helpful.

Question:
I was noticing a problem with my trailer. I noticed that my carpet on the right side of the trailer right below the window in the bedroom was wet. I took a look at the gutters to make sure they weren't clogged and they weren't. The window wasn't open and I could see where the water was coming in. I looked outside and there appears to be a depression/dip right over the window so the water pools there and comes down over the window.

Since I could see any water coming in on the inside I assume its leaking through the caulking somewhere and inside the wall. I just noticed it yesterday so I'm not sure how long its been leaking for. My obvious main concern is water in the wall and mould problems etc.

Any suggestions?

Answer:
Hello, we would recommend re-sealing around the window. As time goes by the putty they use oozes due to heat from the sun and breaks the silicone seal. The proper method of re-sealing would be to remove all silicone and putty around window and clean with solvent. Then apply a good quality silicone all the way around the window.