RV Camper Trailer Specials

Despite the weather its shaping up to be great season here at Hub City RV.
We have a great inventory of new 2014 Puma and Canyon Cat towables. And as
always a large selection of used Motorhomes, Trailers, Fifth Wheels and
Campers.

RV Parts Specials

RV Pro Dual Pivot Slider Fifth Wheel Hitch $699.00 RV Pro Equalizer Hitch
$399.00 RV Pro 3500lbs Electric Tongue Jack $239.00 Camco Rubber Roof
cleaner and conditioner $18.99

RV Tech Tips

Wheel bearings on tow able units are often overlooked. Wheel bearings
should be re-packed every 3000 miles. If a bearing overheats it will ruin
the axle.

Another item that is often overlooked is the yearly treatment of RV unit
rubber roof’s. RV rubber roofs degrade from UV Rays, dirt, pine needles
etc. Cleaning and treating your rubber roof goes a long way to avoid
costly roof replacement.

RV Service Special

Re-pack wheel bearings single axle $169.00 and $269.00 for tandem axle.
Includes grease and axle seals.

1-888-390-7780

Hours Mon-Sat 9-5 Sun 11-4 Sales only

Hub City RV
7357 Industrial Road
Lantzville, BC  V0R 2H0
(250) 933-0700

Please visit our website at the following location:
http://www.hubcityrv.ca

Hub City RV Has Left That Building

It's been a crazy few months for all of us at Hub City RV. About six months ago, we had the bright idea that it was time for a change, so we started exploring new properties for our dealership. We found a great location, only a few minutes south of our existing spot, and close to Nanaimo, where many of our customers reside. So we took the plunge. It seemed like a good idea at the time.. After three months (it was supposed to be one) of major renovations at the new location, we're finally moved. Well, mostly. All our units are in, the offices are sparkling and new, and the coffee's on. We're still a work in progress (especially the Parts Department), but we're here and we're excited for the future. To all our loyal customers- we're looking forward to showing off our new digs. And of course we can't wait to meet our new friends. So stop by- we're open for business!

Class C Motorhomes

Class C Motorhomes are easily identified by their cab over bunk. These Motorhomes are built on a cab and chassis supplied by Ford, Chevrolet or Dodge. These chassis are commonly known as cut-aways. Some of the newer models have other makes of chassis like Volkswagen or the Freight liner Sprinter. To be considered a Class C there is always a bunk over the driver's seating area or in some cases this space has a T.V. and stereo and is known as a front entertainment area. They range in size from 20 to 40 feet for the most part although there are a few exceptions depending on age and manufacturer. Class C's are similar to a moving vans, but most of them are a large box attached to a van chassis and many don't have the cab over portion. Most C type Motorhomes have dual rear wheels similar to a dually pickup trucks. Class C's are available with single or multiple slide outs and many of the smaller ones have none. There are several manufacturer's building these units and many floor plans are available. Most R.V. rental companies use C type units because they are considered easy to drive, have passenger seating for six and are less expensive than Class A Motorhomes. Check out Hub City RV's selection of Class C Motorhomes by clicking here

Don't Forget to Winterize Your RV

Every spring at the dealership we get a lot of people looking for faucets, toilet valves, fittings and water heaters. This is due to improperly or not winterizing their motor homes, trailers or campers. Replacing a water heater can be quite expensive. We hear all the time "I drained out all the water" and still they face freeze up damage. Their are basically two methods of RV winterizing: blow out the lines with compressed air or run RV Antifreeze through the lines. The first step is to ensure the black, grey and fresh water tanks are drained. Then you will need to by-pass the water heater and drain the tank. A water heater by-pass kit is a standard feature on most RV's these days, but a male/male 1/2" connector works as well. With the blow out method you would now connect compressed air to the city water inlet with a compressed air adapter. Next you would turn on each faucet one at a time to allow the air to force the water out of the lines. Don't forget the outside shower. The toilet should have the water forced out as well. Now you should pour a couple of ounces of RV Antifreeze down each drain to prevent the traps from freezing. To Winterize with RV Antifreeze you would still drain tanks, by-pass water heater and drain it. You would then look for the water pump, identify the inlet side, disconnect and attach a length of line that can reach a gallon of RV Antifreeze. Next you would turn on the water pump and pump the pink liquid through each faucet, the toilet and showers. To prevent freezing of the check valve, it is wise to depress it with a pencil at the city water outlet. It is very inexpensive to have you unit professionally winterized, we charge $29.95 for units that take 1 gallon of anti-freeze and have a water heater by-pass. To contact Hub City RV to book your appointment click here http://www.hubcityrv.ca/contact_us.asp

Leak Problem

Happy New Year!!! Our resolution at Hub City RV is to pay more attention to our blog. I thought by posting some of the questions we get with our answers it would be quite helpful.

Question:
I was noticing a problem with my trailer. I noticed that my carpet on the right side of the trailer right below the window in the bedroom was wet. I took a look at the gutters to make sure they weren't clogged and they weren't. The window wasn't open and I could see where the water was coming in. I looked outside and there appears to be a depression/dip right over the window so the water pools there and comes down over the window.

Since I could see any water coming in on the inside I assume its leaking through the caulking somewhere and inside the wall. I just noticed it yesterday so I'm not sure how long its been leaking for. My obvious main concern is water in the wall and mould problems etc.

Any suggestions?

Answer:
Hello, we would recommend re-sealing around the window. As time goes by the putty they use oozes due to heat from the sun and breaks the silicone seal. The proper method of re-sealing would be to remove all silicone and putty around window and clean with solvent. Then apply a good quality silicone all the way around the window.