We've had so many amazing adventures in the almost 20 years we've lived on Vancouver Island, one would think there's nothing more to see. We were pleasantly surprised recently, when we decided to check out the Port Alberni Steam Train. We had heard about the Beaufort Gang Train Robbery and thought it sounded like fun. We boarded the train at the Port Alberni Quay, and were soon joined by some interesting characters in period costume. The volunteer actors did such a great job of involving and entertaining the passengers along the route. Suddenly, the train stopped and we were surrounded by bandits on horseback! They boarded the train and proceeded to rob our costumed friends, as well as making off with the contents of the safe, and the payroll! After some hilarious antics, the bandits exited the train, and took their bows. We then proceeded to the McLean Mill. Thinking that was the end of our entertainment, we were further surprised to find an enthusiastic group of actors from the Tin Pants Theatre awaiting our arrival at the mill. We were then treated to demonstrations of the steam donkey, sawmill and live theatre, in a historic setting. This was one of the best adventures we've had on Vancouver Island and we would recommend it to anyone. The Alberni Pacific Railway, along with the Alberni Valley Heritage Network, has done an amazing job of capturing people's interest in the history of Port Alberni and the McLean Mill. They also offer other adventures, including a wine tour train trip to the Chase and Warren Estate Winery, and a Santa Train. We'll definitely be back!
http://www.alberniheritage.com/
A blog about anything RV. RV's for sale, repairing RV's, selling RV's, places to go RV, even funny looking RV's.
Friday, September 2, 2011
Saturday, August 27, 2011
Hub City RV's RV Maintenance Schedule
ROOF
Clean and Condition Rubber (Every Year) Use a Rubber Roof Cleaner and Conditioner
Inspect Vents, Stacks and AC (Every Year) For Cracks and Missing Pieces
Inspect Roof Sealants (Every 6 Months) For Cracks, Lifting or Peeling
ELECTRICAL
Check Battery Fluid Level (Every 6 Months) Refill as Necessary
Check Signal, Brake and Clearance Lights (Each Trip) Repair as Necessary
Check Interior Lights, Switches and Electrical Accessories (Each Trip) Repair as Necessary
Check Battery Terminals (Every 6 Months) Use Sandpaper to clean
WATER SYSTEM
Flush Fresh Water System (Every Year) Use Tank Cleaning Product
Flush Holding Tanks (Every Year) Use Tank Cleaning Product for Sensors
Use Waste Digester Black Tank (Each Trip) To Avoid Solids Building Up
Winterize (Every Year) To Avoid a Costly Freeze Up Water System
APPLIANCES
Water Heater (Each Year) Flush To Expel Mineral Deposits
Refrigerator Burner (Every 6 Months) Clean Rust and Debris from Burner
Furnace Exhaust (Each Year) Look for Bee Hives and Spider Webs
Have Propane Inspection (Each Year) To Check for Operation and Leaks
EXTERIOR
Inspect Window Sealant (Every 6 Months) Look for Lifting, Cracking or Peeling
Inspect Exterior Doors Sealant (Every 6 Months) Look for Lifting, Cracking or Peeling
Inspect Edge Mouldings (Every 6 Months) Look for Lifting, Cracking or Peeling
Inspect Exterior Lights (Every 6 Months) Look for Lifting, Cracking or Peeling
Chassis
Repack Wheel Bearings (Every Year) Or as Necessary
Adjust Brakes (Every Year) To Ensure Proper Operation
Check Tire Pressure (Each Trip) To Ensure Long Life
Torque Wheel Nuts (Each Trip) So Your Wheels Stay On
Lubricate Stabilizer Jacks (Every 6 Months) To Ensure they do not Seize
SAFETY
Check Smoke Detector Battery (Each Trip) Change as Necessary
Check CO2 Detector Battery (Each Trip) Change as Necessary
Check Fire Extinguisher (Each Trip) Change as Necessary
SLIDES OUTS
Check Operation (Each Trip) For Binding
Check Seals (Every 6 Months) Check for Loose or Gaping Seals
Lubricate Rollers and Glides (Every 6 Months) To Ensure Operation
Clean and Condition Rubber (Every Year) Use a Rubber Roof Cleaner and Conditioner
Inspect Vents, Stacks and AC (Every Year) For Cracks and Missing Pieces
Inspect Roof Sealants (Every 6 Months) For Cracks, Lifting or Peeling
ELECTRICAL
Check Battery Fluid Level (Every 6 Months) Refill as Necessary
Check Signal, Brake and Clearance Lights (Each Trip) Repair as Necessary
Check Interior Lights, Switches and Electrical Accessories (Each Trip) Repair as Necessary
Check Battery Terminals (Every 6 Months) Use Sandpaper to clean
WATER SYSTEM
Flush Fresh Water System (Every Year) Use Tank Cleaning Product
Flush Holding Tanks (Every Year) Use Tank Cleaning Product for Sensors
Use Waste Digester Black Tank (Each Trip) To Avoid Solids Building Up
Winterize (Every Year) To Avoid a Costly Freeze Up Water System
APPLIANCES
Water Heater (Each Year) Flush To Expel Mineral Deposits
Refrigerator Burner (Every 6 Months) Clean Rust and Debris from Burner
Furnace Exhaust (Each Year) Look for Bee Hives and Spider Webs
Have Propane Inspection (Each Year) To Check for Operation and Leaks
EXTERIOR
Inspect Window Sealant (Every 6 Months) Look for Lifting, Cracking or Peeling
Inspect Exterior Doors Sealant (Every 6 Months) Look for Lifting, Cracking or Peeling
Inspect Edge Mouldings (Every 6 Months) Look for Lifting, Cracking or Peeling
Inspect Exterior Lights (Every 6 Months) Look for Lifting, Cracking or Peeling
Chassis
Repack Wheel Bearings (Every Year) Or as Necessary
Adjust Brakes (Every Year) To Ensure Proper Operation
Check Tire Pressure (Each Trip) To Ensure Long Life
Torque Wheel Nuts (Each Trip) So Your Wheels Stay On
Lubricate Stabilizer Jacks (Every 6 Months) To Ensure they do not Seize
SAFETY
Check Smoke Detector Battery (Each Trip) Change as Necessary
Check CO2 Detector Battery (Each Trip) Change as Necessary
Check Fire Extinguisher (Each Trip) Change as Necessary
SLIDES OUTS
Check Operation (Each Trip) For Binding
Check Seals (Every 6 Months) Check for Loose or Gaping Seals
Lubricate Rollers and Glides (Every 6 Months) To Ensure Operation
Wednesday, August 17, 2011
Pachena Bay Campground on Vancouver Island British Columbia
The best thing about Pachena Bay Campground is certainly not the drive in. From Port Alberni B.C. it is about a 80 kilometer drive down an active logging road that takes 2 hours. Can you say washboard ! Parts of this road you need to slow down to 10km/h to not destroy your rig. I think a lot of units start to leak from twisting and flexing too fast down roads like this. Important Note: To units with poor tires or wheel bearings that have not been re-packed, this will be the ultimate test of your luck. Now really if you drive slowly and sensibly this road is totally do-able, but make sure your rig is up to snuff. I think what makes Pachena Bay Campground popular is it's location, right at the head of the Westcoast Trail. There is a constant flow of people starting and finishing the famous 7 day trek. Today is Canada Day 2011 so my youngest and I thought we would do a day hike of the trail. She was quite impressed with the bridges and 4 and 6 story ladder systems. This trail is quite challenging in it's entirety and a day hike will give you an idea of what a 7 day trek would be like. Last year some friends and I did the trail, but that's another story. After dinner we went out for a tear on our mountain bikes. We ran into what we think is the most scenic campsite, R1 has an ocean view and is right on the beach. The next morning we spent the day exploring the expansive sandy beach. You can see eagles in their nests and the tidal pools are full of nature. No trip to Pachena Bay would be complete without visiting Bamfield. Bamfield is a destination for ocean kayaking, sport fishing, the Westcoast Trail and is home to the Bamfield Marine Sciences Centre.
Saturday, August 13, 2011
RV Electrical Systems
Recreational vehicles operate primarily on 12 volt (battery) power. This battery can be charged by the power converter or the tow vehicles alternator. When the RV is plugged into AC power, the power converter converts it to DC power. The tow vehicle charges the battery through a charge line off the starting battery. The charge line must have an isolator to prevent drawing the starting battery. The fridge, air conditioner and 110 power outlets have direct AC power when the RV is plugged in. Most of the newer units have gas and electric hot water tanks and microwave ovens which get direct power as well. All appliance ignitors, pumps, stereos, fans, interior and exterior lights run on 12 volt power. Trailers that have 12 volt electric brakes, are equipped with a break-away switch that is connected to the tow vehicle. If this switch is pulled, it will lock up the trailer brakes to stop the trailer in the event of a break-away. The brakes are activated by an electronic brake control, located in the tow vehicle. Lastly, the 12 volt system has a fuse box (similar to automobiles) and the 110 system has breakers.
Labels:
110 outlet,
12 volt,
12 volt dc,
ac,
ac power,
battery,
breaker,
charge line,
conveter,
dc,
fuse box,
isolator
Monday, June 20, 2011
RV Water Systems
RV Water Systems
Recreational Vehicles have two connected water systems. The fresh water tank supplies a 12 volt demand water pump, which pumps water through lines when the taps are open. The city water connection supplies the water lines with pressurized tap water. When in fully serviced campgrounds, you would use city water and only use your fresh water tank when water service was not available. Be sure to always use a non-toxic water hose for drinking water. You should carry a water pressure regulator to prevent over-pressurizing the water lines which causes leaks.
The water system also includes two separate waste tanks. These tanks are known as the grey and black water tanks. Grey water is a combination of sink and shower water. Never store valuables in the bathtub, as this is where the grey water will back up when the tank is full. Black water contains only toilet waste. Chemicals are available to break down solids and control odour in the black water tank. Both have gate valves which can be pulled to drain the tanks. Be sure to connect a sewer hose to the outlet and into the dumping station drain before pulling the valves.
Winterizing the water system is fairly simple. First, get a gallon of non-toxic RV antifreeze, and then by-pass the hot water tank (some units have a by-pass kit). With a by-pass kit, simply turn the taps to by-pass the tank. Without a by-pass kit, disconnect both water lines at the back of the hot water tank and join them together. Once the tank is by-passed, unscrew the tank's drain and pull the pressure relief valve to drain the tank. Make sure fresh water and waste tanks are now completely empty. Next, disconnect the main water line at the fresh water tank (this is the line that feeds the water pump). If this is inconvenient, pull off water line at inlet side of water pump, then fasten a length of hose to it. Now place the hose in RV antifreeze, turn on water pump and beginning with the closest taps to pump, turn on taps one at a time. Let the taps run until the colour of antifreeze is visible. Run every tap in the unit, hot and cold separately. Don't forget to flush the toilet until the colour appears as well. Once this is done, all the water in the system has been forced out, leaving none left to freeze.
We are not responsible for any damage that may occur by following these guidelines.
Monday, June 6, 2011
RV How To Guide: Chapter 1- Propane Systems
Propane systems are the most dangerous part of RVing. It is very important to ensure your system is fully functional and passes all safety regulations. In order to do this, we highly recommend you have your unit tested by a certified RV Technician, and gas certified. This blog is for your information only. We do not recommend trying to test your own propane system, and are not responsible for any outcomes.
The propane appliance system in a Recreational Vehicle has many elements. It is common to find a propane fridge, stove, furnace and hot water tank in most RV's. Each appliance will have a propane connection and some method of lighting each burner. For example, older RV's have propane furnaces that require you to manually light pilots to fire burners, while most newer furnaces have automatic ignitors triggered by a switch. As well, most newer fridges and hot water tanks have automatic ignitors. These appliances are relatively easy to fire. Most have a valve to turn, or a button or knob to push, and you either light with a match or activate ignitor. The stovetop is the easiest part; most work just like a gas barbecue and all ovens have a pilot light. Appliances have printed instructions of the operations step by step, located by the controls. The RV's propane system has propane bottles and a propane regulator to supply each appliance. Motor homes and van conversions have frame mounted propane tanks. The propane system is plumbed with copper tubing from each appliance to a steel main located underneath the RV's floor (see diagram). The main line is connected to the regulator and the regulator to the propane bottles. These are the basic elements of an RV's propane system.
Propane is directed to appliances from propane bottles. It first passes through hoses to a propane regulator. This regulates pressure to the propane lines. From there the propane is directed to a steel line usually found under the RV's frame. This enables all propane connections to be made outside the RV's body. In newer RV's there are no connections or tees inside the RV's body. All connections are potential leaks. Copper tubing is used from the main line to each appliance. Each end of the tubing is flared and connected with brass nuts. Finally the copper tubing connects to each individual appliance's gas control valve.
Many problems can arise with an RV's propane system, the most dangerous of all being propane leaks. These can be detected in two basic ways. Because most leaks occur at connections, you can check for leaks soaping each connection with a mixture of half dish soap and half water. Soap should be heavily applied with a paint brush and the propane supply must be on. If bubbling appears, this indicates a leak. Look carefully for continuous bubbling and make sure appliances are off.
The propane appliance system in a Recreational Vehicle has many elements. It is common to find a propane fridge, stove, furnace and hot water tank in most RV's. Each appliance will have a propane connection and some method of lighting each burner. For example, older RV's have propane furnaces that require you to manually light pilots to fire burners, while most newer furnaces have automatic ignitors triggered by a switch. As well, most newer fridges and hot water tanks have automatic ignitors. These appliances are relatively easy to fire. Most have a valve to turn, or a button or knob to push, and you either light with a match or activate ignitor. The stovetop is the easiest part; most work just like a gas barbecue and all ovens have a pilot light. Appliances have printed instructions of the operations step by step, located by the controls. The RV's propane system has propane bottles and a propane regulator to supply each appliance. Motor homes and van conversions have frame mounted propane tanks. The propane system is plumbed with copper tubing from each appliance to a steel main located underneath the RV's floor (see diagram). The main line is connected to the regulator and the regulator to the propane bottles. These are the basic elements of an RV's propane system.
Propane is directed to appliances from propane bottles. It first passes through hoses to a propane regulator. This regulates pressure to the propane lines. From there the propane is directed to a steel line usually found under the RV's frame. This enables all propane connections to be made outside the RV's body. In newer RV's there are no connections or tees inside the RV's body. All connections are potential leaks. Copper tubing is used from the main line to each appliance. Each end of the tubing is flared and connected with brass nuts. Finally the copper tubing connects to each individual appliance's gas control valve.
Many problems can arise with an RV's propane system, the most dangerous of all being propane leaks. These can be detected in two basic ways. Because most leaks occur at connections, you can check for leaks soaping each connection with a mixture of half dish soap and half water. Soap should be heavily applied with a paint brush and the propane supply must be on. If bubbling appears, this indicates a leak. Look carefully for continuous bubbling and make sure appliances are off.
The second method requires a manometer. The manometer measures the pressure inside the propane lines. It will also tell if the pressure leaks off. Simply remove stove top cover and one of the burners- this will leave the gas supply tube gase. The manometers nipple then hooks onto burner tube, with the propane turned on at this time. The manometer will now read gas line pressure. This should be between 11 and 13 pounds per square inch. Now turn the burner off and ensure all appliances are off. With another stove top burner turned on, bleed gas pressure to 5lbs per square inch. When 20 minutes elapse, look at manometer. It will read either higher than 5lbs or lower. If higher, the system does not leak and reads higher due to gas expansion within lines. If lower, the system probably leaks. Propane gas tests can be dangerous and should be done in a well ventilated area and away from spark or flame. In order to certify a propane system, you must be a licensed pipe fitter with recreational vehicle certification. Propane connection leaks can usually be fixed by tightening connections and testing with soap method. If all connections in a system have been soap tested and manometer leaks persist, there is probably a faulty gas valve at one of the appliances. A gas valve leak can be determined by capping off each appliance one at a time with a proper propane line cap. These are the most common methods of diagnosing and repairing propane leaks.
There are many reasons why a propane system cannot be certified. Propane bottles must be re-valved every ten years. Each bottle is clearly marked with a month and year (ie. 6-94). Ten years from the date shown the bottles are out of date. Mantle style gas lamps are now illegal in RV's, as are catalytic style heaters. When gas valves leak through the pilot tube in the off position, they must be changed. Leaking or broken regulators must be changed. The hoses from bottles to regulator cannot be cracked. There can be no tees or connections inside the RV's body, just direct connections to appliance gas valves. Most importantly, the propane system must not have any propane leaks.
Recreational vehicle fridges are fairly complex. Most work with propane or electricity and some have 12 volt battery power as well. It is very important to completely level your RV before operating it's fridge. These fridges have a cooling unit in the back filled with ammonia which, when heated, causes a cooling reaction. Most fridges fail because of blockages in the cooling unit and if a strong ammonia smell is present inside the fridge, the cooling unit leaks and is probably beyond repair. These cooling units can be rebuilt, but this is very expensive. Inadequate heat at the cooling units base will cause poor fridge performance. A burned out electric element or clogged up propane burner are common problems. The RV fridge is definitely the most expensive RV appliance.
The RV hot water tank is fairly simple and straight forward. Some newer models have automatic ignition but most have to be lit outside the unit. It consists of a tank, either 6 or 10 gallon, a gas valve, a pressure relief valve, drain valve and a gas fired burner. Some of the late model RV's have electric elements to heat water when the unit is plugged in. The most common problems are: the pilot light won't stay lit, the pressure relief valve leaks or the pilot light won't shut off. If the pilot won't stay lit, usually the thermocouple is faulty and installation of a universal thermocouple is inexpensive and easy. Be sure to get the big end of the thermocouple right into the pilot flame. The pressure relief valve has a rubber seal. If it is leaking, sometimes tapping the release lever will reseat the seal. If this doesn't work, the whole valve can be wound out with a pipe wrench and replaced. Finally, if the gas valve has been turned to the off position and the pilot does not shut off, the gas valve leaks and must be replaced.
There are two basic kinds of RV furnace. One is called a gravity furnace, basically because it is not fan driven and the heat dumps out. The other is called a forced air furnace. It has a fan to direct the heat. All are thermostatically controlled. Again, most of the newer models feature automatic ignition. The models that have to be lit manually have the same problems as the hot water tank. Another common problem that occurs after lighting the pilot, is that it blows out after the fan is engaged. This is usually a faulty thermocouple or the pilot flame is not hitting the thermocouple properly. The thermostat will engage the furnace fan. A faulty thermostat can be checked by joining the two wires at the thermostat. If the furnace fires, the thermostat is faulty.
There are many reasons why a propane system cannot be certified. Propane bottles must be re-valved every ten years. Each bottle is clearly marked with a month and year (ie. 6-94). Ten years from the date shown the bottles are out of date. Mantle style gas lamps are now illegal in RV's, as are catalytic style heaters. When gas valves leak through the pilot tube in the off position, they must be changed. Leaking or broken regulators must be changed. The hoses from bottles to regulator cannot be cracked. There can be no tees or connections inside the RV's body, just direct connections to appliance gas valves. Most importantly, the propane system must not have any propane leaks.
Recreational vehicle fridges are fairly complex. Most work with propane or electricity and some have 12 volt battery power as well. It is very important to completely level your RV before operating it's fridge. These fridges have a cooling unit in the back filled with ammonia which, when heated, causes a cooling reaction. Most fridges fail because of blockages in the cooling unit and if a strong ammonia smell is present inside the fridge, the cooling unit leaks and is probably beyond repair. These cooling units can be rebuilt, but this is very expensive. Inadequate heat at the cooling units base will cause poor fridge performance. A burned out electric element or clogged up propane burner are common problems. The RV fridge is definitely the most expensive RV appliance.
The RV hot water tank is fairly simple and straight forward. Some newer models have automatic ignition but most have to be lit outside the unit. It consists of a tank, either 6 or 10 gallon, a gas valve, a pressure relief valve, drain valve and a gas fired burner. Some of the late model RV's have electric elements to heat water when the unit is plugged in. The most common problems are: the pilot light won't stay lit, the pressure relief valve leaks or the pilot light won't shut off. If the pilot won't stay lit, usually the thermocouple is faulty and installation of a universal thermocouple is inexpensive and easy. Be sure to get the big end of the thermocouple right into the pilot flame. The pressure relief valve has a rubber seal. If it is leaking, sometimes tapping the release lever will reseat the seal. If this doesn't work, the whole valve can be wound out with a pipe wrench and replaced. Finally, if the gas valve has been turned to the off position and the pilot does not shut off, the gas valve leaks and must be replaced.
There are two basic kinds of RV furnace. One is called a gravity furnace, basically because it is not fan driven and the heat dumps out. The other is called a forced air furnace. It has a fan to direct the heat. All are thermostatically controlled. Again, most of the newer models feature automatic ignition. The models that have to be lit manually have the same problems as the hot water tank. Another common problem that occurs after lighting the pilot, is that it blows out after the fan is engaged. This is usually a faulty thermocouple or the pilot flame is not hitting the thermocouple properly. The thermostat will engage the furnace fan. A faulty thermostat can be checked by joining the two wires at the thermostat. If the furnace fires, the thermostat is faulty.
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
The Power of Peace of Mind by Harvey Cohen
There are few things that provide “peace of mind” more than knowing unexpected financial hardship can be avoided. This is exactly the sort of comfort one may enjoy if they invest in a longterm vehicle breakdown protection plan. Better known as ‘extended warranties’ these programs provide a level of protection designed to reduce if not eliminate the need to pay for unwanted yet unavoidable breakdowns. It’s true stories have been written questioning their worth. It’s also true some believe that one can take their chances as to whether or not they would even use such a plan. The truth is these programs have never been better. The level of coverage provided is second-tonone affording the RVer to travel worry-free throughout North America. No longer will one have to be at the mercy of an unknown entity promising to repair their homeaway-from-home, for once armed with such a plan, the RVer can rest assured an expert will be
available by phone to prevent unwarranted and overly expensive repairs.
The whole reason for taking to the road in an RV is to enjoy oneself. Other than finding the ideal location with a pristine lake surrounded by utter quiet, what better way can one achieve peace and tranquility than knowing that should your RV suffer a mechanical shutdown, the major cost of repairing it will be looked after? Regardless of the model one purchases, anything can suffer a mechanical failure, true? Should this occur someone will have to pay to fix it. These programs are designed to take the worry out of doing just that. Furthermore they are not just a piece of paper covered with a lot of promises; rather they are actual insurance policies underwritten by a very reputable and experienced company… Industrial Alliance Pacific General. What does this mean to you? Some consumers (rightfully) fear the legitimacy of the so-called warranties. They have been known to wonder if these companies are real… will they be there to pay claims if and when they occur. Some wonder if they will actually cover things that really do break. Rest assured that a company such as Industrial Alliance Pacific General would never put their name on something they had no faith in. They too are at risk for it would be they who would have to pay the claims if something went wrong. Their name on each certificate assures the public that as long as the claim is legitimate, the money will be there to pay for the repairs… allowing the
RVer to do what s/he intended to do... and that’s have a good time.
Extended Mechanical Breakdown Protection. Is it worth it? You bet… because there’s nothing like laying back, staring at the stars and having nothing to worry about.
Harvey Cohen is an internationally renowned business consultant. He is featured on the hit TV show Style by Jury (as the Business Coach) and is proudly affiliated with the SAL GROUP and I A Pacific General Insurance Company.
© 2011 Harvey Cohen. All rights reserved. Unauthorized use of this material is not permitted without authorization from the author.
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